What’s Haute at Couture

Play it cool

Platinum Guild International (PGI) is returning to Couture this June to debut collaborations with 16 designers. In a show usually dominated by warm yellow gold, PGI is turning down the heat.

From left: Beck platinum and diamond ring; Spinelli Kilcollin Juno ring in platinum with diamonds.

Chain in command

No longer simply functional, chains are becoming a key design feature. Expect to see intricate textures in gold, strings of pearls in place of links, and bold sizes that attract just as much attention as the pendants they hold.

From left: Retrouvai Cascading Domino Ball chain in 14-karat gold with a heart-shaped tourmaline; Gemella Stella Bar necklace in 18-karat gold and diamonds.

End of the rainbow?

No way. New jewelry launching at Couture is as colorful as ever. Kaleidoscopic gemstones make a bold impact, with vibrant greens and pinks as the top shades of choice.

From left: Eéra diamond earring in 18-karat gold and pink PVD; Emily P. Wheeler Anna pendant in 18-karat gold with maw sit sit and pink tourmaline.

Flights of fancy

From mythical animals to symbols of folklore and luck, fantasy and talismans are very much out in force at this year’s show. These upbeat pieces are designed for escapism as much as reassurance.

From left: Harwell Godfrey Scarab pendant in 18-karat gold with pink topaz, carnelian and pink sapphires; Mermaid Tails bracelet by Bibi van der Velden in 18-karat gold with diamonds.

Rolling stones

These sensual, flowing designs create a softer way to wear diamonds. Sculptural gold, tactile textures and kinetic settings set the scene for brilliant facets.

From left: Ondyn jewels in 18-karat gold and diamonds; Lizzie Mandler Cleo ring with oval-cut diamond in 18-karat gold.

Everybody cut loose

Designers at Couture are answering the call for quirky gemstone shapes with intricate facets, custom cuts and artistic intaglios. Look out for colored gems that have the X factor.

From left: Assael ring in 18-karat gold with a Tahitian pearl and a fancy-cut amethyst; Lydia Courteille earrings in 18-karat gold with morganite intaglios, pink sapphires and rubies.

Main image: Big Bang earrings by Ondyn in 14-karat gold and diamonds. (Ondyn)